This wiki is about budgerigars and how best to raise them. For those of you unsure of what a budgie is, they are adorable little birds who make wonderful companions. They are small, colourful parakeets that are a popular pet around the world. Topics covered include nutrition, what is toxic to them, illnesses, breeding, colour mutations and more. This is a helpful guide for people who are new to raising these sweet little creatures or want advice. Advice given about nutrition and health should not be a substitute for proper medical care from an avian vet.
What is a budgie?SaadEditThe budgerigar is a small, long-tailed, seed-eating parakeet native to the drier parts of Australia. Wild budgies are naturally green and yellow with black scalloped markings on their wings. Breeders have created budgies in a rainbow of gorgeous colours including vivid blues, albino, yellow (lutino), grey and some with crests. Budgies are very popular pets around the world because they are small and don't cost a lot to keep, they are very playful and they can mimic human speech.
buying and Caring for Your First BudgieEdit
It's ideal to purchase a budgie from a breeder, rather than a pet store. A breeder is serious about what they do and will give you good advice on how to care for the newst addition to your family. When choosing a budgie, look for a sprightly, active bird who chirps a lot and appears inquisitive. A bird who sleeps in the corner of the aviary/cage with their feathers puffed up may be sick. Don't buy a sick bird, even if you feel sorry for them. You'll be at the vet a lot and the bird will probably have to need to be euthanised at some point, as it's unfair to keep them alive when they are seriously ill.
Preparing for the new bird:Edit
You may have seen pictures or friends’ birds and have in mind your particular “ideal” but have you considered the gender of the bird, and whether there are specific advantages in owning a male over a female, or vice versa? Can you tell the difference? This is where research as part of your preparation is really important. In young birds, the cere of a male is purple to blue, and the female’s is a whitish-blue that will usually darken to brown as she matures. (This may depend on her general colouration and genetic background.) In reality, both cocks and hens can be “tamed” to become excellent pets that will, with patience, step onto your finger, respond to you and your voice, and learn to “talk”. Don't buy them a round cage, as there would be no room for them to fly side to side.
How old should the bird be?
If you are hoping to train your budgie, you will want to ensure that you buy them at the right age. The optimum age would be between 8 and 10 weeks – less than this and they are not ready to leave the parents, and much more will put them beyond the age when they can regard you as the one to learn from.
What to look for:
Look at the cages or aviaries in which the birds are kept. Are they roomy enough to ensure the birds can exercise? Do you get the sense that they are hygienic and regularly cleaned? The birds themselves should be lively, fully-feathered and chirping loudly. Check that their feet are not encrusted with dried droppings, and look under their tails at the area known, in birds, as the vent, which should be clean, and show no wetness or discoloration.
The breeder may have a cage with a selection of birds for sale. You will be looking for a healthy eight week old bird that is complete in feather, (no bald patches that may point to self-plucking because of anxiety or boredom, or to some other health concern,) and showing a generally lively, alert demeanour. Take time and you may be attracted to some particular personality or appearance. Conscientious breeders generally will not let birds go if they are too young, but do check that the one you choose is over eight weeks old. If it isn’t quite yet, the breeder may agree to hold it for you until it is old enough.
Remember to ask
If you have decided to take one of their birds, ask the breeder what they feed them on because you must feed the same diet initially. You will need to know what seed is used, if he offers soft food and which supplements, if any. Once a bird has an established feeding pattern any change in the type of food presented, or even a change in seed, can put the bird off feeding. If you intend to change his diet it is important to introduce new or different foods gradually, but while the bird is still young enough to adapt and accept changes. You may choose to use a widely available proprietary brand such as the well-trusted “Trill”, or a 50/50 mix of canary feed and mixed millets.
It is an investment to build a good relationship with the breeder because they're a source of information and advice. Why not check with them, before you leave, if they would agree to accept a call from you if you have any questions?
The price you will pay may vary enormously from area to area and breeder to breeder, but as a general rule, a pet quality bird may cost as little as $10 or as much as $50. A higher price does not necessarily imply a better bird, and if the price seems very low it does not necessarily mean there is something wrong with the bird, or that it is inferior in some way. If you have your heart set on a particular bird, or colour or gender, you probably want to decide beforehand what is the most you are willing to pay.
The Budgerigar Society holds a list of their members who will supply birds to the pet market.
Bringing Home Baby
You have assessed, chosen and brought home your budgie, and his new home is ready for him. You have an appropriate cage, and you have placed it up off the floor in a secure area away from direct sunlight, heaters and air conditioners. You have furnished it with some natural wood perches, food and water in appropriate containers, and a few toys. DO NOT use apricot, cherry, peach, prune, plum or nectarine because they contain cyanogenic glycosides which release highly toxic cyanide if eaten by the bird.
Do not handle the bird for the first seven days; let them settle into the new environment as they may be suffering a little stress with the change of scenerr. Move slowly when you are near the cage and when the bird feels settled, they will let you know by showing himself to be alert, active and, literally, “chirpy”.
Keep an eye on seed and water dishes and other feeders and remember that water that has become fouled by droppings can be one of the biggest budgie killers. Food dishes may appear still to be full because budgies remove the outer shell (husk) of their seed which then falls back into the seed pot. You should blow the husk off the top daily and ensure there is enough for the day’s needs.
Supplements for his Health
You should provide oyster shell grit as a valuable source of calcium.
Cuttlebone, (people often refer to it as cuttlefish,) which is available through pet food suppliers’ and in pet shops, not only provides calcium and other vital minerals, but will also be provide enjoyment for your bird and helps to keep his beak clean and at the right length. Also good for his nibbling are iodised peck blocks are made with grits, seaweed extract, calcium, yeast vitamins, minerals and iodine.
Don’t feel tempted to offer vitamin supplements. Vitamins are dangerous if overdosed and can encourage bacterial growth. If you are using a good seed mix and following the other suggestions above, your bird will be getting a well-balanced, nourishing diet.
If you want to offer treats, millet spray is a budgie favourite. To make sure that the sprays are free from fungal spores that may cause illness, soak the millets overnight in a solution of F10SC. In the morning rinse them off thoroughly and make sure they have been air-dried before offering them to your bird.
Hygiene for Health
Water containers must be cleaned and changed daily, use Milton or Aviclens to clean out the water container. The ideal water containers are the small glass water bottles because the budgie soon finds the nozzle and these cannot be fouled by droppings. Similarly, food containers must also be scrupulously clean, especially if they have been on the floor of the budgie’s cage, (and therefore at risk of contamination from droppings,) or if they contained soft or perishable foods like fruit and veg.
If you want to tame a budgie and get them to sit on your shoulder, you should get them as young as possible. If you get a budgie of about 6 weeks of age, they will be used to being handled by the time they are mature. If you're just after a feathered companion to chat to, then the bird's age doesn't really matter. Be warned though, older birds, especially females can be quite grumpy, so try not to handle them.Your budgie should live between 6 and 8 years, but some may well live into double digits if you really love them and take care of them well.
How to Tell a Budgie's SexEdit
Telling the difference between males and females is rather difficult when they are still babies, but as they get older, look at the colour of the fleshy bit above the bird's beak. If your bird is male, it should turn a lovely blue colour. If you bird is female, it should go a white colour (non-breeding) or a brown colour (breeding). If you have a Lutino or albino, however, their beak may remain a purplish-pink colour their whole lives. The way to tell male from female with these birds is look for a white ring around the cere. Females will have the white ring around the cere, males don't.
NutritionEditBudgies should have a varied diet. Your bird should be fine on a diet of seed, millet and water, but for optimum nutrition, you should introduce some kinds of fruit and vegetables, and give them a cuttlebone to eat and sharpen their beaks on (this provides them with calcium). Seeds are high in fat, so they shouldn't take up the whole of a bird's diet. Baby birds sometimes like to be fed egg biscuit, but only give it as a treat. Some vegetables enjoyed by budgies include spinach, carrots and celery. They love fruits like raspberries, grapes, blueberries, plums, bananas, papaya, melon and cherries.
OK so this of what you shouldn't feed them is mostly common sense:
- Citrus fruits like lemons, limes or oranges
- Avocado (it's toxic)
- dates or prunes (too much tanning agent)
- Kumquats (too acidic)
- Passionfruit (too much citric acid)
- Grapefruit or Pomelo (too much citric acid)
- Unripe fruit or vegetables of any kind
- Contaminated seed or water
- Rotting fruit or vegetables (feed it to your garden instead)
- Things that are considered bad for humans like fried food, coffee, tea (though cold black tea can be used on cotton balls to treat eye problems sometimes).
Make sure you take away any soiled or uneaten food, as it will make them sick if they eat it. Always give your budgie fresh seed and water every day.
Location, Location, Location!
A Guide to Providing a Suitable Home for Your Pet Budgerigars
Okay, so you’ve decided you want a budgie and I assume, because you are a responsible person, that you have done a little research to enable you to reach your decision. Providing the right cage, perches, dishes, and other accessories will help your bird have a happy, healthy environment.
Before you get your bird, or birds, you will need to ensure that you are going to provide a suitable living space. Let’s start with a cage. Even birds that come out to socialize spend a large part of the day in their cage, so it is obviously important to choose something suitable. The market is full of cages, available in various sizes, shapes, ornamental finishes and prices, so choosing the “right” one can seem a bit daunting.
Size, Shape, Material
Budgies need space to move around to maintain their fitness and keep them happy, so they should have a cage that is tall and long enough to allow that. The size recommended at most pet stores is likely to be the minimum size for that species of bird. I have had budgies for more than fifty years and every cage and aviary I have ever made could, on reflection, have been larger. Your bird will be happier with a larger, more spacious cage where it can fly from perch to perch, and from one end of the cage to the other without risk of injury.
Some of the very ornamental cages may look attractive but my advice would be to stick with square or rectangular cages as these are easier to clean and safer for the pet. As the number of corners in the cage increases, the flight area is decreased and the connecting edges decrease safety. And the frills and curlicues on the fancier ones must be kept as meticulously germ-free as the plainer cages or you may put your budgie’s health at risk.
Metal is usually the best material for a bird cage construction as it stands up to the abuse birds give it and is easy to clean and disinfect. Most will have a slide-out bottom tray, which is easy to remove, clean, and replace. Check before you buy that there are no gaps that the bird can escape through, either while the tray is removed for cleaning or while the tray is in place.
The bars of the budgie’s cage must be no more widely-spaced than 12mm apart to avoid any accidents.
There are a number of proprietary cage floor coverings available, such as “Easibed” but ordinary black and white newspaper does the job. Put seven sheets on the floor at the beginning of the week and just roll up and remove the top one daily.
The door needs to be large enough to allow you comfortably to put your hand in to handle, remove, and replace the bird. The latch on the door must be escape-proof. Budgies are not bird-brained! They have plenty of time and can take much pleasure from finding a way to open it. Some owners resort to using a clip or a padlock to thwart their would-be Houdini.
Positioning the Cage
You will, no doubt have thought about where your budgie’s cage will be positioned, and of course you have considered such obvious points like ensuring that your bird won’t be in a draught but will benefit from good natural daylight. If you hope your pet will learn to “talk” to you, it is best if he is kept in an area of your home where there is lots of human activity. If he is not particularly sociable, he may be happier in a quieter area of the house.
There are some other, perhaps less obvious considerations to think about including the height of his cage relative to the floor, and the level of his perches. This is important because of your bird’s perception of what height means to him. In the wild, the more dominant birds perch on higher branches. If your pet is lower down he will be anxious and feel vulnerable. The lower down, the more unhappy he is likely to be, and if his cage is placed at or near floor level, he will not just feel at risk but will be at greater risk from accidental knocks and cold draughts of air. Ideally you need to position the cage so that his perches are at approximately at your own chest level.
Still thinking about his wild origins, your bird will feel more secure and less at risk from potential predators if his cage has its back to a wall or other solid surface.
“Furnishing” Your Budgie’s Home
Several furnishings are needed for the cage. These include perches, containers for food and water, cage cover, and toys. A word of caution here. You want the best for him and you may even want to “spoil” him a little, but do make sure that, when the accessories are all in the cage, the bird still has plenty of room to fly and move about without colliding with obstacles. You should be prepared also to replace things periodically as they suffer from wear and tear from the budgie’s chewing and from the regular, necessary cleaning.
Natural tree branches are better than the wooden dowels normally supplied when the cage is purchased. Because of the irregular shape of branches, the bird is not always putting pressure on the same part of the foot when he stands. It is recommended that you heat natural branches for 45 minutes in a 200º oven to kill any insects. Cut the branches to fit the cage, scrub and clean them well with detergent, rinse very thoroughly, and dry in the sun. Natural branches are also very easy and cheap to replace, especially if you have room in your garden for a willow or apple tree. Even if you don’t, you can plant a cutting in a large pot and it will grow very quickly. Break a piece off a willow tree about 25mm diameter and plant the cut end 100mm into the soil. This will very quickly give you an abundance of leaves and branches for your cage.
Untreated cotton rope is also great to use as a perch. It can be tossed in the washing machine for cleaning. Replace it when signs of fraying appear because your pet could be injured through eating the strands or catching a toe in a frayed area.
Similarly, a swing offers not just another perching opportunity, but exercise and enjoyment for your bird.
Plastic perches are not recommended as they are slippery and can cause medical problems if parts are eaten. Sandpaper belongs in the carpenters tool box and should be never used in a bird cage or as a perch cover because it can damage the bird’s feet.
Locate one perch to give easy access to the food and water containers, but not directly over them. The bacteria that breed in his droppings can make your pet very ill if he ingests them.
As before, ensure that the perches do not inhibit his flight or movement – ensure that the bird's tail will not touch the side of the cage when perching, check regularly for signs of wear and tear, and replace as soon as necessary.
· Containers for Food and Water
The food and water containers need to be easy to remove and able to withstand the rigorous daily cleaning that is necessary to keep your bird healthy. Suitable materials include stainless steel, crockery, or good quality, rigid plastic that is able to withstand not just the cleaning but also the birds chewing. As food and water is changed daily, containers do not need to be huge. Water may be given in a dish, a purpose made water “drinker”, or in a water bottle such as the type guinea pigs use. Make sure the bird knows how to use the bottle, (you can show him by touching your finger to the end of the nozzle and offering him the droplet,) and that it is easy to remove, wash, and refill. Use a bottle brush for cleaning it. And remember to locate food and water dishes where they will not be contaminated with droppings. Having an extra set of dishes makes cleaning easier.
· Cage Cover
Even budgies that are extremely sociable need to rest, and a fabric cover that can be slipped over the cage in the evening will help avoid the stress of over-stimulation and give him a sense of night and day, sleep and playtime. You can buy cage covers, usually where you bought your cage, or you could make them if you’re handy from natural fabric that is reasonably thick and will exclude light and draughts. As with all budgie accessories, look out for wear and tear and keep things clean.
A budgie can get bored unless he is offered the opportunity to enjoy “play” and exercise. There is a vast array of toys offered for sale in the pet shops, but resist the temptation to get too much.
Try a small mirror as his own reflection will provide stimulus and company, a swing and a ladder, both of which will exercise his grip and balance.
A small toy on the floor, such as a wobbly friend or a ball for him to move , chase and spar with will complete his range of activities. You can always buy a new something to ring the changes occasionally and offer him a further challenge.
Keep them clean and discard and replace them if when they are chewed or damaged.
You will need to provide a good quality seed mix that is specifically meant for budgerigars. “Trill” is well tried and tested and widely available. It contains iodine for health.
Cuttlefish bone, an iodine block, (the little pink one,) and some oyster shell grit are all available from a good pet supplies store and if you supply these, along with clean water daily, you are offering excellent nutrition that will keep you budgie happy and healthy.
Make sure you get your budgie checked at the vet regularly. Once every 6 months is great. NEVER wait until your birdy is poorly before taking them to the vet. You go for a regular check-up with your doctor right? You go to the dentist once every few months? Your bird should be going to the vet regularly to be checked over. better to spend $80 and find out your budgie is healthy than to wait until you have to get them put down.
If you don't have any cats or dogs or bigger animals, it's nice to let your budgie out of the cage to fly around or wander around. If you are worried about your feathered friend flying in to something, you could get their wings clipped (get a vet to show you how to do it. There's a lot of squawking and biting involved). If your bird is on a diet of mostly seeds and doesn't get a lot of exercise, then they will get really overweight (no, it's not as cute as you think). An overweight budgie is at risk of developing benign fatty tumours that can grow at an uncontrollable rate and make your feathered friend have trouble with breathing (my first female bird Beyonce had to be put down because she was overweight). If you have a large aviary of birds or more than one bird in a cage, it's best to worm them every few months because illness can spread fast in such close quarters and get a vet to come over and check them every 6 weeks.
DiseasesEditLike all creatures, budgies can get sick too. Most illnesses can easily be treated, like scaly-face mites, but some may need a bit more treatment. Generally, the easiest way to tell if your bird is sick is if they are sitting at the bottom of the cage, feathers puffed up and sleeping a lot, ignoring their food and being unusually tame. Here's a list of all the conditions I could find and how you can tell if your bird is sick with these and if possible, how to treat it. In the next two sections, this is *not* advice to be taken in place of visiting a vet. These are just remedies I have heard may help your budgies. if you're not sure, I ask that you don't do it until you get the all clear from a vet!
- scaly-face mites: This is common in birds who live in aviaries or where there are multiple birds in close quarters. Sometimes when you bring your bird home, they may already have it. As it takes a few months for the mites to become noticeable, you might not think the bird is sick until the stuff starts appearing on the beak. When a budgie has the mites, the beak will look crusty and gross. The crustiness can spread to the cere and around the eyes if left untreated, and can lead to deformities of the beak. This is usually diagnosed by taking your budgie to the vet, who will scrape some stuff off the beak and look at it under the microscope. If it is scaly-face mites, then you'll be prescribed ivermectin for your budgie. Ivermectin should be in the form of two doses with an interval of 10 days. Each dose is 0,2 [mg / kg] intramuscular. If you have other birds in the cage, treat them whether they look sick or not because it is contagious. Replace wooden perches with branches from native trees and do this weekly. If you can't see the vet straight away, try applying Vaseline or olive oil on the beak with a cotton bud. This will suffocate the mites. You might need to do this a couple of times every day.
- egg-binding: This is only a female bird disease, obviously. This is caused by birds being mated too early in the year, around January/February in the northern hemisphere or April/May in the southern hemisphere. Prevention involves mixing cod liver oil into a breakfast-cup of seed. Treatment consists of heat, like putting the cage near the heater (obviously not too close). in an emergency, wrap the female in a warm towel and hold her near somethign warm. Generally, in these conditions, it will help her lay the egg. If you see your female bird sitting on the floor for long periods and she seems to be straining excessively, it could be problems laying the egg. If left untreated, the bird may die of exhaustion, stress or other things.
- Red mites: These mites hide in the croener of your budgie's cage during the day and come out at night to bother your bird. They irritate the bird so much they don't get much sleep and will be cranky and tired during the day, sleeping a lot and being grumpy to you. During the day the mites look grey and aren't really visible, but after they feed, they look red. Scrub the cage and tooys and accessories in warm water during the day and anything around it. Don't let the bird near the cage or areas near the cage. Don't disinfect the bird!
- Colds, pneumonia, bronchitis: Symptoms can include diarrhoea, sneezing, wheezing, breathing trouble, sitting puffed up in the corner of the cage, discharge from nostrils, tail bobbing up and down, loss of appetite, shortness of breath and sleeping a lot. Causes can include being exposed to draughts/sharp drops in temperature. A vet may give antibiotics and tell you to keep the bird warm.
- Apoplexy (stroke): Caused by a lack of Vitamin E. Symptoms involve the bird being weakness and falling off the perch. Get your bird to the vet IMMEDIATELY. If you can't, then your bird has no hope of surivival. I lost my beloved Pariswinter to a possible stroke.
- Coccidios: This is caused by internal parasites. If you keep your birds outdoors and they interact with wild birds, they're at risk. Symptoms include loss of appetite, bloody droppings, weight loss and weakness. Diagnosed by examining for eggs in the droppings.
- Feather lice: Caused by mites and makes wings, back and breast feathers look like they have chewed edges.
- French moult: Causes affected birds to lose their tail feathers and flight feathers to an extent after they leave the nest.
- Gout: Symptoms include appetite loss, weight loss, lethargy and a change in temperament. A diet rich in greens and vitamin B can help the bird.
- Psittacosis: Rare in birds that are reared in captivity. Caused by a bacterium and is contagious. Humans can get this disease and it can be noticed in birds who have brown diarrhoea. The surviving birds become carriers. The birds' eyes become inflamed and and they have difficulty breathing. This can be treated with antibiotics like tetracycline or doxycycline in their water. In humans, the infection mimics tyhpoid fever in the first week- you get diarrhoea and a really high fever. Then comes conjunctivitis, leukopenia (decrease in white blood cells), nose bleeds and an enlarged spleen. Severe cases can lead to coma.
- kidney problems: Symptoms include liquid droppings, drinking more water than normal and lots of urine in droppings (the urine is the white bit I think).
FIRST AID KITEditHere are some basic things you'll need in a first aid kit in case anything goes wrong:
- ivermectin: in case of lice or mites or worms. it's cheap enough but if you ask nicely on a bird forum someone might have some they can give you.
- calcium: This is good if you have a female bird who is egg bound. Usually lasts 16-18 months though brands other than the one linked may last for longer or shorter times.
- Dettol: For cleaning the cage and toys if the bird has mites (use the bleach) and for treating infections (apply *ANTISPETIC LOTION* to affected area with cotton bud)
- Eye dropper: in case you find a baby bird that is still too young to eat on its own
- cotton buds and cotton wool: useful for bathing wounds and infections
- ring cutters: If you have an aviary, these are good for cutting the rings off your bird's foot.
- Savlon spray: If you bird gets injured or attacked, spray the area with savlon then isolate birdy for a few days.
- scissors: always have these on hand for trimming millet stalks or clipping wings.
- tea: Try and have a variety of teas like black tea (soak a cotton ball in cold, weak black tea for minor eye infections), chamomile (for upset tummies), thyme tea (you can buy it from a health food store or pharmacy to treat fungal infections or megabacteria just don't feed it to the bird), fennel tea (anti-spasmodic properties can help with constipation and flatulence). Use some common sense and prepare the teas you feed to the birds *weakly*. Anise tea is also good for the same thing as fennel tea and can also help with respiratory ailments. Stinging nettle tea is good when your bird is on detox treatments from the vet.
EVERYDAY THINGS TOXIC TO BIRDSEdit
Here is a list of things that could be potentially deadly to your birds that you use every day:
- fly spray, aerosol deodorant, air fresheners,perfumes, spray starch
- Teflon, scented candles
- Antifreeze, kerosene
- ant traps, moth balls, cockroach bait
- ammonia (found in many prducts you use to clean your clothes), detergents, bleach, rubbing alcohol and drinking alcohol (Dettol should be ok as long as the bird does not ingest it), floor polishes
- carbon monoxide, cigarette smoke
- caffeine, illicit drugs, pretty much any medicines you use
- formaldehyde, asbestos, oven cleaners, fertiliser
- hair products (shampoo, conditioner, hair dye, hair mousee, hairpsray, gel, etc), skin care products like cleansers, lotions, nail varnish, cosmetics, suntan lotion, nail varnish remover
- insecticides, pesticides, flea powder, flea collars and airators
- matches (ingested), glue
Please don't let your budgie anywhere near these plants because they are toxic:
- American Yew
- Anything sprayed with chemicals or exposed to exhaust fumes
- Arrowhead Vine
- Asparagus Fern
- Autumn Crocus/Meadow Saffron
- Balsam Pear
- Beach Pea
- Beans (all kinds are dangeorus if uncooked)
- Betal Nut
- Bird of Paradise -- seeds
- Bittersweet Nightshade (although it says this is edible for birds that disperse their seeds, all nightshade plants are deadly to your little feathered friend)
- Black Locust -- bark, sprouts, seeds, and foliage
- Bleeding Heart/Dutchman's Breeches
- Blue-Green Algae
- Bracken Fern
- Broad Bean
- Broomcorn Grass
- Buckeye Horse Chestnut
- Buttercup -- bulbs and sap
- Cactus (especially the San Pedro cactus)
- Calla Lily/Arum Lily
- Candelabra Tree
- Caphne (need help on this one)
- Cardinal Flower
- Caroline Jessamine -
- Cassava root
- Castor Bean (Castor oil incudes powerful cramps, diarrhoea and vomiting)
- Chalice Vine/Trumpet Vine
- Cherry Laurel
- Cherry Tree -- bark, twigs, seeds, and leaves. Fruit should be safe though. If you're not sure then don't feed it to your bird.
- Chinaberry Tree
- Christmas Berry -- berries
- Christmas Cactus -- sap
- Christmas Candle (can't find anything)
- Christmas Rose -- flowers and foliage
- Creeping Fig
- Coffee plants
- Coral Vine/Plant
- Cowslip/Marsh Marigold
- Croton (seed of the plant is used to cause diarrhoea)
- Crown of Thorns
- Crown Vetch
- Datura and Angel's Trumpet
- Deadly Amanita
- Death Camas
- Deadly Nightshade
- Death Cap Mushroom
- Dogwood fruit
- Dutchman's Breeches
- Elderberry leaves
- Taro leaves and stems
- Elephant's Foot
- Glory Bean (dafuq is this?)
- Gold Toothed Aloe
- Ground Cherry
- Heart Leaf
- Hemlock (and any water the plant is in)
- Henbane -- seeds
- Holly -- berries
- Honey Locust
- Horse Chestnut/Buckeye -- nuts and twigs
- Hyacinth -- bulbs
- Hydrangea -- flower bud
- Indian Laurel
- Indian Licorice Bean
- Indian Turnip/Jack-in-the-Pulpit
- Indigo Plant
- Iris/Blue Flag -- bulbs
- Ivy (Hedera Helix)
- Japanese Yew
- Jatropha -- seeds and sap
- Java Bean - lima bean (uncooked)
- Jerusalem Cherry -- berries
- Johnson Grass
- Juniper -- needles, stems, and berries
- Kentucky Coffee Tree
- Lambkill/Sheep Laurel
- Lantana -- immature berries
- Lily of the Valley (and any water the plant is in)
- Lords and Ladies/Cuckoopint
- Mango Tree -- wood, leaves, rinds of fruit
- Marble Queen
- Marijuana/Hemp -- leaves
- Mayapple (Fruit is OK!)
- Mescal Beans -- seeds
- Milkweed - leaves
- Mistletoe -- berries
- Moccasin flower -- flowers and leaves
- Mock Orange -- fruit
- Monkshood/Aconite -- leaves and roots
- Morning Glory
- Mountain Laurel
- Mushrooms -- SEVERAL varieties
- Natal Cherry -- berries and leaves
- Nectarine -- pits and seeds
- Needlepoint Ivy
- Nicotine Bush
- Nightshade -- ALL varieties
- Nux Vomica
- Oak -- acorns and foliage
- Oleander -- leaves, branches, and nectar
- Onion (Raw)
- Parlor Ivy
- Peach -- leaves, twigs, and pits
- Peanuts -- raw
- Pear -- seeds
- Pennyroyal -- flowers and leaves
- Peony -- flowers and leaves
- Philodendron -- leaves and stems
- Pine - needles, twigs, and sap
- Pine Needles -- berries
- Plum -- leaves and seeds
- Poinsettia -- immature leaves and roots
- Poison Elder
- Poison Ivy -- sap
- Poison Oak -- sap
- Poison Sumac
- Pokeweed/Inkberry -- leaves, roots, and immature berries
- Prune -- branches
- Purple Sesbane
- Rain Tree
- Red Maple
- Red Princess
- Rhubarb -- leaves
- Ripple Ivy
- Rosary Peas/Indian Licorice -- seeds
- Russian Thistle -- flowers and leaves
- Saddle Leaf
- Salmonberry -- fruit and leaves
- Sandbox Tree
- Scarlet Pimpernel -- flowers, fruit, and leaves
- Scarlet Runner Beans
- Scotch Broom -- seeds
- Skunk Cabbage
- Snapdragon -- flowers and leaves
- Snow on the Mountain/Ghostweed
- Sorghum Grass
- Spanish Bayonet -- flowers and foliage
- Spider Mum
- Split Leaf Philodendron
- Sprengeri Fern
- Star of Bethlehem -- flowers and foliage
- String of Pearls
- Sudan Grass
- Sundew -- leaves
- Sweet Pea -- seeds and fruit
- Tansy Ragwort
- Thorn Apple
- Tiger Lily -- flowers, leaves, and pods
- Toad Flax -- leaves
- Tobacco -- leaves
- Tomato -- leaves
- Toyon Berry -- berries
- Trillium -- leaves
- Trumpet Vine
- Umbrella Plant
- Upas Tree
- Venus Flytrap
- Verbana -- flowers and leaves
- Virginia Creeper - sap
- Water Hemlock
- Wax Plant (Hoya carnose)
- Western Yew
- White Cedar
- Yam bean -- roots
- Yellow Jasmine
- Yew -- needles and thistles (American, English, Japanese)
Colour and markingsEdit
If you see a budgie in the wild, they would be green and yellow with scalloped black markings on the nape, back and wings. However, breeders have created a multitude of gorgeous colours such as blues, greys, whites, yellows, bright greens and some may have crests. Little baby birds will have bars almost down to their cere, while adults don't have that many. All captive budgies are divided into two basic colour series: white based (blue, grey and white budgies) and yellow based (green, grey-green and yellow budgies). At the moment, there are about 32 primary mutations in the budgie (including violet), leading to hundreds of possible secondary colour mutations. I'm no expert so I don't know much else. Each of the 32 primary mutations belong to one of four groups:
- Albinism: This is where eumelanin is either partly or completely reduced in all body tissues and structures, similar to the way an albino person has little or no pigment in their skin
- Dilution: This is where eumelanin is party reduced in feathering
- Leucism: This is where eumelanin is completely reduced from total or localized feathering
- Melanism: This is where eumelanin is increased in feathering.
OK so some of you may have heard of the elusive "red" or "orange" budgies. They are fake, any pictures of them are probably just badly shooped photos of different birds. Look below for more info on colour mutations.
If you can help me edit this wiki, provide info on anything or just have any suggestions, don't hesitate to leave a message on the founder's talk page or send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
I'd like to thank Barrie Shutt for his help contirbuting to this wiki.